9.1.2026 – 9.3.2026 || Budapest | Hungary
Similar to Prague where we started this trip, I first visited Budapest 24 years back during an amazing trip where my friend and I zipped through 15 European countries in just 42 days. We were backpacking and keeping it super budget-friendly. This time I was excited to explore the sites with a little more time and enjoy meals at nice restaurants instead of grabbing quick bites at bars. Here’s how we spent three days in Budapest before making our way to Krakow.
Our flight left Prague at 7:30 am and we arrived at Al Habtoor Palace Budapest in mid-morning. After dropping our bags, we headed out to explore. Upon arriving back to the hotel, they served us a complimentary glass of champagne while we waited for our room to be prepared. Booking with Elizabeth at Souvenir & Far had benefits, such as an upgraded room and some treats to welcome us to Budapest.
Budapest consists of two parts, Buda and Pest, located on either side of the Danube River. We stayed in Pest, where it is more urban and full of tourists. Don’t miss the view of Buda from Pest, especially at night by the water.
We first went for a coffee and then climbed the 364 steps to the terrace of St. Stephen’s Basilica. I like seeing a city from above to understand its layout.
By the time we descended it was time for lunch. The streets around the basilica are lively with restaurants and cafes. We discovered a hummus bar with a great falafel wrap. I recommend the food but not the room temperature rose wine.
After lunch, we visited the Hungarian Parliament Building by the Danube River. The architecture is stunning during the day, and I looked forward to an evening river cruise to see it from the water. We walked back to the hotel along the river to see if our room was ready.
We went to Retek Bisztro for our first dinner in Budapest. What a tasty introduction to Hungarian cuisine. The piano man added to the lively vibe. We began with Langos, a fried dough with sour cream and shredded cheese. There were fast food versions everywhere in the city, but this was the only one I tried as it was quite heavy for me. The stuffed cabbage and homemade pasta were also tasty.
After dinner, we went to the river for an evening cruise on the Danube. I did a daytime cruise 24 years ago, so I was excited to see the sites lit up at night. It was a clear, beautiful evening, perfect for viewing the glowing sights against the dark waters. The complimentary warm sparkling wine was not nearly as good as the views.
The next day we visited the hilly Buda side to see Buda Castle (pictured on the left), once the Royal Palace and now the National Gallery. Some people visit Buda mainly for the views of Pest (pictured on the right). It seems more residential and if you are a tourist short on time you could probably stay on the Pest side.
We chose to skip the National Gallery and explore Castle Hill. I enjoyed the variety of architecture close together.
We had a coffee at Rojt es Bojt to relax and plan our afternoon. We stayed in Buda for lunch and went to Mitzi for salads and a spritz.
After lunch we crossed the river and headed to the Ludwig Museum to check out some contemporary art. We explored three exhibits filled with colorful paintings, sculptures and pop art by artists like Picasso, Andy Warhol, and regional works from the post-1960s. It was a nice way to slow down after a morning in Pest and it was interesting to see perspectives from many Central European artists.
The ruin bars in Budapest were just starting to appear when I first visited, and I didn’t hear about them until friends recommended we check them out. What began as a bar in an old building in the Jewish Quarter has turned into several unique bars with lots of character across multiple rooms and floors. Most ruin bars open in the late afternoon and stay open until 4am! We visited Szimpla Kert at 3pm when it opened. Each room had a different theme and vibe, and it took me a while to find the wine bar past the CD vending machine upstairs, but I finally did!
For dinner, we found ourselves drawn to the river, where we discovered a tapas spot called Tapas Fino.
The next day, our flight to Krakow was at 8pm, giving us most of the day to explore. Instead of spending the morning at one of the thermal spas we decided to take a walk and check out the Central Market Hall to explore the food and souvenir stalls. We then took the long way back to the hotel. We headed towards the Parliament building and looped back to the hotel along the Danube River.
At this point, I wished we had visited a thermal spa and will book one next time in Budapest. Fortunately, the hotel had a nice rooftop pool where we relaxed for the rest of our stay. After three busy days in Budapest, we enjoyed two days in Krakow to finish our trip. Check out what we did by visiting my Krakow page.
Question: Which side of the Danube fits your vibe: the historic, hilly Buda or the energetic, urban Pest?
